Day 6 - Kumono Kodo I - Trail in Darkness

I am a city boy. If I ever grow comfortable with the forest, it will be no small feat. 



I spent the morning in Kyoto. I took an early train down to Kii Tanabe, a small city on the coast of the Wakayama Penninsula. Traveling in Japan without any english is mostly easy and sometimes requires some gesturing and working together to come to a mutual understanding. The trouble is miscommunication and that can have serious repercussions like, whoa. Despite leaving early, I arrived too late to begin the trail. After a train, a second train, and a local bus to the head of the trail, it was 12:30 and I arrived to a light rain on the Nakahetchi trail. I made a last minute change to my itinerary and was now obliged to travel 17KM to get to my luggage and reach my accommodations for the night.

One properly begins their pilgrimage with "testing their faith" by crawling through the optional Tainai-kuguri bolder. 

A humongous rock blocks my path like a Snorlax. I remove my pack and crawl through a pitch black corridor. I snake through, trying to keep an eye out for spiders -- the Black Widow spider does live on the path -- but I had to give up on my sight adding anything useful. I reached a sliver of light at the end of the corridor -- a crevice -- was this the exit?


I met no other travelers on this day. In retrospect, none other was fool enough to start the path so late. I spent time sauntering, journaling, and reading Dune -- seated, aloud, and walking.

 I traverse ancient stone paths, deep forest, shrines, and small mountain villages on the gorgeous Nakahetchi trail. Everything picturesque and the outlooks abundant. Fog swam among the tops of the mountains - my panorama for the next two days. In the words of Willy, "Rack Ball."








Things got thick around 5.

I finished my last handful of granola and bought a new bottle of water -- 1000 yen left. Light was fading out. I picked up the pace: Jogging up hills, skipping over brooks, and aggressively scanning my path, looking to avoid any dangerous wild life emerging with sunset.

...

Now the sun was gone. I dipped out of the forest at a rest stop with vending machines and bought a Pocari Sweat. Did it just get even darker? I was scared to look at my map. I knew I had landmarks still to come or hopefully I had just missed them in my mad rush. Of course I had missed nothing. The sun was gone and the forest was black -- it sounded like insect symphony orchestra.

I was out of options and worried, and I kept moving.

Eventually, I escaped mortal peril and arrived in the napping mountain village of Tsugizakuri-Oji. 
This was not the end.

I WISH

This town is desolate.

I dig through my bag and find my town map, under a highway-side street light.

My encampment is through the village, up a hill, past a graveyard, and over a river.

 

More than once I come to what I mistake as dead ends.

I arrive in somebody's yard and scare the shit out of some kid. 

I'm more scared of him.

 

More than once, small upturns or undocumented roads stump me.

I pass a bus stop with a roof. My accommodations for the night.

I've done worse

In the end, my map was reliable.

When I reached the site, it was almost nine. A little old lady was waiting up for me.

"Checking In"

She orienteded me with the accommodations -- including the onsen. My beautiful room had tiers like a tree house, high ceilngs, and smelled of freshly cut forest wood. It had multiple ladders and tiers. I spent the evening soaking, laughing, and counting my blessings.

Day 8 - Kyoto II

I have been doing so much lately, I am having trouble keeping track of all thats been going on. I have ambitious plans to jog/run the Fushimi Irani mountain shrine tomorrow at 630am, so I cant stay long -- but I want to write about today in Kyoto. Life has slowed down drastically and these days remind me of the days before the Kumono Kodo. Its weird, I feel I am still in the Kodo a bit -- like, my body is still crying and my mind keeps reverting to moments on the trip. On the other hand, Im eating (at all) in restaurants and taking showers and such. It was one of the best trials Ive been through. I would love to return one day -- better prepared, and hopefully with company. Its such a great experience. Im glad I did what I did and almost died, but I would rather have company. Im not sure who would join me after I flirted so hard with oblivion. ANYWAY.

Last night, I nimbly dodged locals attempting to fry my mind with free shots. The irony -- I would accept free shots, gladly, at any other time -- but I get them when I need to get up and adventure. Alas, poor Yorick. 

Today I went to the Imperial Palace, The International Manga Museum, various shopping destinations, Shoren-In Temple, Fushimi Irani (I gave up and vowed to return and conquer tomorrow) and I ate at a Vegan Restaurant which was actually the best meal Ive had on this trip and the entire restaurant gravitated toward me -- like I said and will continue to say -- take a step out, and see how you reek of adventure.

Today I met four little boys Soda, George, Yoda, and Tsiguri. I think Tsiguri is the only person who gave me a real name lol. Real creative kids -- Soda and Yoda. They were hanging out in a bhuddist temple in their school uniforms eating ice cream, saying hi to everyone. I fist bumped them and they applauded that I am from America: America very cool! Ninja!!!, said George. I dont know where the quotation signs are on this japanese keyboard. Itallics for life. 

National Manga Museum wowed me. I couldnt really take photos inside because it was heavily camera-d. It was actually more of a manga library than a museum. They had mostly models submitted in what seemed to be an international Gundam model competition. Some of them were quite impressive. Not really my cup of tea. I almost cried at how spectacular it was that a place like this existed. It reminded me of my old elementary school, Rock Creek International, on foxhall road, DC. An old, marble (? Slate? Polished Rocks?) school -- but this was filled to bursting with manga. All over, kids were relaxed and reading Manga. Hilarious, I saw one kids mom chew him out -- probably for going to the manga library instead of where he was supposed to be. 

Here are some pics I found online. My fav pic was the one with the divet. Kids were really chilling in this divet, reading manga! Also there were probably 10K volumes here. Also, I bought alot of presents here ;)

I visited THE most BEAUTIFUL garden I have ever seen, in Shoren-In Temple. I was stunned by the intermingling of rock, water, foliage, height, and human structures. Like, ogm -- YES OGM -- that was the pinnacle of human art for me, right there. In one moment I was sauntering through dense woods on the path and I happened into a heavy branch right in front of me. I was in such a good mood, I cupped a leaf and kissed it. I kissed a leaf, because the garden was so pretty. In that moment, I was just like get over here you beautiful leaf and let me kiss you.

  

This is NOT grass -- it is RAF moss. What verdant moon is this, that moss grows unperturbed instead of grass????

I once saw a young man, keeled over, crying in front of a Van Gogh.

Now, I have seen nature and its beauty. 

I still have no idea what was wrong with him. 

Day 7 - Kumono Kodo Pilgrimmage

I am not going to write about Day One. Okay, just a bit, but I will be posting a video of all the snapvideos I compiled and that will really be enough. That will come when I return from Tokyo. Suffice to say I started a 9 hr hike woefully unprepared and way too late. I hiked into the pitch black and it scared the street cred out of me. Imagined dangers, real dangers, relentless enemies (frogs, crabs, spiders). Ive come to the conclusion that I completely understand how living in Japan could give rise to the idea of Pokemon.

Today, wow-ow, today...

I awoke early in the AM and my whole body ached. This city boy is not used to 8-9 hour hikes or the profusion of terror-inspired sweat and tension. I knew I had not really planned this day out and so I hit the maps and began preparations immediately. I plotted what I thought would be a fine journey for the day -- 5 kilometers, up and down and again, into the Hongu Grand Shrine. 

I do a quick check of my finances and clothing. Im down to about $5.50 and on my last pair of clothes.

Bus comes in about 25 minutes and I need to pack. Now! I throw all my stuff together and Im out the door, hoping to retrace steps that took me about 40 minutes last night, in just about 15 minutes. Im off and down the road and end up in a dead out sprint after the bus. Im carrying my walking stick thinking to myself, this is what it is like to be a scout in ancient battles that took place here.

I was so dazed and confused by the time the bus took off. I also (already) managed to work up a significant morning sweat, which, I assumed (correctly) did not bode well for spending the rest of the day hiking and night traveling. I fell back on the efficiency my business has taught me in the morning, because the second I stepped out of task-managing, I was a lost little puppy. You should have seen me, but Im glad you didnt.

After 35 minutes on the bus, I attempt to ask the bus driver whether this is Hossimin-Oji. Driver says Hossimin Oji? Hai! I say, what, HERE_ Hossimin Oji here? Hai. And then Im ripping through my stuff trying to pack a jacket maps books and a journal into my stuff, while finding my wallet -- wherever I put it. An entire tour is boarding and I say F it. I throw all my stuff into my jacket, sling it over my back, with my other two backpacks and approach the driver ready to pay. The tour guide says a quick word to the driver and turns to me This isnt your stop. You have about 30 minutes. I felt pretty embarassed, after my confused attempt at leaving the bus. I turn to the bus and all the seats are now taken so I sort of fall and stumble to somewhere in the middle of the bus, where I take some time to collect my things and self, and Im standing until we reach Hossimin Oji.

By this point Ive had a chance to collect myself. I should also mention that I have 5 dollars to my name and am also out of food and water at this time. I take my final shot of granola and Im clean out.

This amplified my shame on that bus. Im out of everything -- really -- headed into another long ass day of hiking, after what had happened the night prior. I am very, very out of my element and feel a bit like a fool.

Unlike the day before, where, because I started so late, I didnt meet anyone, my hike intermingles with the tour group and tour guide who jumped in for me on the bus and I hear a lot of great stuff from him. That tour seemed really cool and perhaps Ill consider attending in the future.

A big difference from the day before is that Ive started meeting people. I averted connection on the first day, but today was very different. I met a bunch of different couples. I was the only idiot out by myself and the only 20 something. I think this is actually awesome, in retrospect. One couple I met, I got to speaking with at a rest stop. We discussed our trips in a friendly tone and parted way. About an hour down the path, we passed eachother again, and a greeting serendipitiously changed into a conversation about the word namaste and what it meant to each of us. How cool is that? We actually had a beautiful little discussion and then went on our ways.

The final 2 hours of the hike were ardouous. I brought way too much stuff. I was carrying a 10 pound backpack on my front and a 20ish on my back and those spots on my body were sweating like none other and my legs began to fail. The 500¥ walking stick I bought in the beginning was so essential. I told my legs they were too big to fail and they acquiesced.

I just wanted to get to the end. Fuck making friends. Fuck reading Dune. Fuck the forest. Get me out of here. I came across a few beautiful views and kept just talking with everyone I met. It felt awesome but my body was whimpering under duress, at this point.

There were many take-aways from the home stretch of my journey. The landscape is breathtaking. The body perserveres. Hiking provides alot of time for thought. You fleetingly meet people at their best. I dont enjoy hiking, and am unsure if I ever will. I prefer the times at shrines or ambling and reading aloud. I would absolutely do this over and again, though, because what springs out of me under stress empowers me in the moment and after it. This difficult pilgrimage, I will never forget.

Day 5 (Kyoto)

This morning, I took a bullet train from the south of Tokyo to Kyoto. This is a culturally rich and tourist friendly city that historically served as the capital of Japan and residence of the emperor. Im only here for a day; im staying over, on the way to Kii Tanabe, which is a launching point for the Kumano Kodo Trail, at the southernmost point on this penninsula.

I walked around for maybe 5 hours total in the beating heat. I walked through some amazing places. I walked along the riverside, where I saw fishermen, couples, and lonely guys just staring into the water. I walked through a terraced outdoor mall, which is right by my hotel. I walked through a sprawling network of traditional style hotels and stores. I trudged with my two backpacks through traditional city streets. My map was not quite to scale and I spent about 4 hours walking with two backpacks and 85 or 90 degree weather.

Kyoto has a very tourist friendly and quite massive ring of traditional japanese style establishments around one of its main temple complexes. As the temples themselves were not accessible, I explored the ring of stores instead. I could still get into many gardens and smaller temples. All around me was beautiful greenery, rare statues, and I could also peek into the main grounds, at times. Here is one thing I saw which blew my mind.

I spent all day carrying both of my backpacks and I sweat alot. I only brought two pairs of socks, so I tried hand washing my stuff. Nothing dried, so I have an interesting quandary coming soon!

Im reading Dune. Ive put off reading this novel for a long time, because I was profoundly affected by the third installment in the series (the only one Ive read) and I wanted space to reflect when I read it. There is so much philosophy, this is how to read it. Alot of travellers and backpackers in Kyoto. I am among the youngest I saw and one of the few singles. I saw alot more single female travelers than I did male, which is awesome. Im not trying to have any competition as cool as me ever.

Denenchofu Architecture

Reflections -- Day 3

Tokyo, Yokohama



It's 7:00am and I'm at my local neighborhood Starbucks. I live in Denenchofu. It's an upscale urbish-suburb with transit options at its core and its comprised of houses only (which is notable, bc Tokyo is 95% apartments). I want to do a home architecture video so maybe Ill do that video on the way home. The architecture here is so, so very interesting.

I've spent really good time with my family in the last two days and saw new sights in and around Tokyo. Food has been excellent. It's wild to see how differently I play, opposite of my mother, father, and sisters, after just having seen them 6 months ago. I feel like a different person. More resolute and not for show, either. I sense principles in my convictions and that's not wishy washy.

I know that this trip is about me. I sense it multiple times each day. The same feeling I get moments before a roller coaster starts. I'm eating ramen and counting down moments simultaneously. I have a 7 day trip starting tomorrow, and each time I think about it, I feel pain, fear, and a whole lot of excitement. The itinerary is something out of a dream. I'm disappointed there's nobody to share it with. I guess this is why people glom together at this age. I've designed an arduous journey for myself. What I like about hard work is that pretensions fade away. The body and mind automatically cut non-essential functions and I'll be happy to get rid of nerve-induced musings.

Lastly, an ode to my family. Without them, this is impossible. I'm lucky and extremely thankful to have a family of means, able to support a trip such as this -- generous, too; willing to pay for a trip on which they dont see me. Man, I am lucky. I feel some guilt about this, but I can look at what I do, how I carry myself, my intent, and how I've acted with regard to generousness and sharing, and I do their legacy honor and will continue to.  My father laments the lack of returns for his generousness. I'm sure if he got to thinking about it, everything he has is because of his generousness. The social world is so neurotic, its best to focus on your own energy, rather than your returns. Reflections and basking in moments of sincerity always reward the gifter. My family, however, is them most wonderful microcosm where generousness hangs between us. I cant forget it! It makes me jubilant AF. Raising kids cant be easy, but my parents did and do a damn fine job. Japan is my bitch.

What is Rancour?

In England they put U’s in strange places. According to the British and my motherfucking computer (Fuck you Apple), there are u’s in honour, favourite, and colour. Its accepted that these are geographically specific spellings of the same word, but I propose we do away with this silly ambiguity in the year 2016, and break words from their u countourparts. Aha! 

Colour has been my longstanding example, rancour is my new one — Ill briefly discuss colour first. To color is to color, how one does in a coloring book (or a good rap album). Colour ought to be used in situations where one tries to describe the adoption of a tone during an event — i.e. Rob Stark’s unexpected death coloured the rest of the television series. Lets do it! We have a homonym and we have an extra duplicate spelling around, and something about the “u” adds, in my opinion, a distinguished flair, fitting for the secondary use of the word. 

So Rancour. Rancour is actually a word. It means bitterness. It used to mean bitterness. Please consider this a declaration of intent as well as a vote of no confidence in the word rancour!!!! I have made an executive decision and BANISH that word, never to return, and, in its place, torn asunder in creative destruction, form this new word with a new definition — rancour!

To know this word, the namesake for this blog, you must know its history. The Rancor is its inspiration; this new definition is its progeny. The Rancor is a race of large, fleshy, golem-type creatures from the Star Wars universe. The race of 20-ish foot tall behemoths was made famous in Episode VI, when Luke fought a Rancor which had been tortured, culled, and trained for viciousness by Jabba the Hut. The creature Rancor represents what the word ‘rancor’ defines: 

"Bitter, rankling resentment or ill will; hatred; malice... Also, especially British, rancour."

It is the very same word we’ve described above! By Mark, Anthony, and the third! We have a homonym and a duplicate spelling!!! 

Rancour now means a rare refinement or understanding within situations appearing outwardly like chaos — Of course there exists no other word suiting this definition. It is a man and woman with rancour who first peg a new art as prophetic; a writer, a new word! Luke Skywalker displays his own rancour many times, like in battle against the Rancor or before he jumps into the Sarlaac pit, prepared to defeat his opponents against all odds.  

Japan - Day 0 - Star Wars and Generosity

“I’ve been on a double decker bus. I was only 6 and cant remember it. But what is a double decker plane?” 

“I dont know, I’ve only heard of them.”

“I bet it’s like a jumbo jet!” 

Im in SFO, hoping to extend my layover long enough to rendezvous with my friend and lover -- lets just call him Robert. Timing hasn't work out. My layover was too short and too early,  so I'd volunteered my ticket as tribute, in case there was overbooking on the flight. Airlines will pay you to take a later flight, if they overbook your flight and you help them out in a pickle.

The attendant seemed surprised and thanked me, but noted that my volunteering was unneeded. I left for some Spanakopita from a poorly run greek establishment (no way, right?) I funnelled a beer (Sean once said this was cool to do when you travel - typical Sean) and returned to a big ass line for boarding.

...

“Just checking in before I get on. You do not need my ticket”?

“No — but — yes, come here. I want to thank you for your generosity. You're upgraded to international business class.”

Motherfucker 

I board, looking for 13J.

“That’s on the upper deck of the plane, sir” 

*escorts me up the stairs*

DOUBLE DECKER PLANE!!! UPPER DECK!!! OH, the places you will go! 

The air up here is predictably refined. Here are a few pics I snapped, before I phone kamikazed, as is its wont these days, apparently. POS. Hope it works for the rest of this trip.  

...

I recently came into a collection of rare Han Solo novellas and these are my reading for the flight. Im def in a SW mood, dig. I check out the in-flight movies and one of the sections is Star Wars Series. They have all seven Star Wars! Cool! Star Wars, Star Wars, Star Wars, which one do I pick? The rancor (VI) is a natural but I am the rancoUr, you see, and Im not bound to my primogenitor - athankyou. 

So I scroll to other in-flight selections and I check out Classics — only Star Wars movies LOL — but not ALL seven SW movies made the cut as “classics.” Consider the selection: Phantom Menace, New Hope, Empire Strikes Back, Return of the Jedi. 

I chose the most complete Star Wars adventure — The Phantom Menace. 

The Phantom Menace has had so many wonderful tie-ins which add depth to an already-deep movie and its the illuminati entry of all the films. Darth Jar Jar — say no more. The Darth Plagueis novel tie-in — marry me. The Pod Racer Game — take control. The music score is 100% the best and there are A LOT of cool images! The imagery is not always presented with the emphasis it deserves, but there is enough depth to the composition and coloring to keep you busy.

Episode I is a tragic shortcoming; the director-producer team (George Jong Lucas) failed to make a fundamentally sound film. I once turned in a 13 page paper in 7th grade and got a C on it. That is Phantom Menace. Among the wounded are the choices in camera angles, acting, written dialogue, character connecting, and then Qui Gon dies from a stab wound but Maul survives being cut in half and falling down an abyss. This is a film only a motherfucker could love. 

BUT GUESS WHAT. The motherfucker next to me saw that I put on Phantom Menace and he is ALSO now watching the Phantom Menace LOL! How fortuitous and serendipitous has this trip been, already. I know a large % of my audience has not embarked on many trips such as this and they terrify me as much as they do, you. The second you step out on a trip such as this, though, you wreak of adventure (you cannot hide it in your air and body language) and people step in to make your day, as you make theirs.

Im sorry I could not see my lover in SF - but here I am in business class, reclining, just ate a literal 5 course meal, topped off by a RAF scoop of vanilla ice-cream w caramel, cherries, walnuts, heavy cream, and coffee, and the Phantom Menace. I have already reached the pinnacle, with far to go.

Update: Watching the Battle of Hoth during airplane turbulence is actually really cool and like a 4D movie experience.

Chance the Rapper Reaction

I've been listening to this album non-stop for a good two days -- not at all uncommon -- I did that with Lemonade, and I really dont like Beyonce. I'm convinced she is illuminati. I think she's not a real persona and - oh - how conveniently her drama with Jay Z seems to have exited the public sphere the second she opened the doors to the Carter mansion's laundry room. She's a robot -- A fembot. Wow, Austin Powers comes full circle.

Anyway.

Chance Lé Rapparout

A lot of these songs are so light sounding and play so nicely with Chance's flexible voice and rhymes that I consider this a top level creation. Chance, indeed, did to a "good ass job with Chance 3." He wont be snatching the grammy, tho. The shades of Kayne are very apparent, also. I think that's pretty funny. His music sounds just like daddy's. Maybe Ye should have called his album Waves, bc the wave very clearly runs (and perpetuates) right through this album. Chance's rapping is very, very good. This is nothing new, but the level of production and overall tone of the album reaches a level I've never seen him at before.

I do think that he runs out of themes by the end of the album. Smoke Break, Juke Jam are about the same thing, and theyre really just stories and Im not super about them, tho I like Juke Jam a bit more. Smoke Break falls flat. Reminds of me of the TI and Flocka collab on 50k, where TI says 50 brought him 50 bands in cash and work and so TI gave him a verse. They never met in the booth, TI was just like aw fuck here take this hot beat -- that's like what Future seems to have done here. There's no synergy. Should have been omitted. Im not going to fry the end of the album, tho. Mixtape was aight. Angels was wonderful. Finish Line was a beauty and reminded me that Ye should have put T-Pain (and here's the proof he's still alive - and a degree away from Kanye) he should have put Kanye on Waves instead of Chris Brown.

8.5/10